I stumbled out of the overnight bus, frazzled and bewildered, a tad tired from the long ride. Time to begin grabbing bus and train brochures, then to decide what to do here in Scotland. I had originally planned to go to the Isle of Skye, a far-off island off the northwest coast via one of the greatest railway journeys of the world. Still, I decided to wait till i first met my host here in Edinburgh to make further plans.
Walking out of the station, i stood awed by the sight of the city. Scotland proudly presented its crown jewel, Edinburgh, Athens of the North, to all who entered its wild lands. The architecture and layout, the way the streets ran up to the Royal Mile was, to me, the most beautiful and refined of my travels thus far. I walked up the streets full of Gothic, neo-classical feel; later I found out i was in the New Town, a rich, intricately planned district still built centuries ago. I reached the railway station, and in the distance, Edinburgh Castle loomed majestic atop a sheer cliff, reigning over the picturesque Princes Street Gardens.
What a city. What a city, really. I made a call to my host Andy to arrange a meetup time, then headed off into the Royal Mile. (An old man who curiously served in the British Army and was in Singapore before WW2 showed me the way. He promised to come visit Singapore again and witness its modern transformation.)
If there were ever an equivalent of les Champs-Élysées in the UK, this would be it. A fine, cobbled avenue, ageless yet modern, running down churches, restaurants, souvenir shops up to the Edinburgh Castle. Dozens of little streets, or closes, ran by its side, waiting for the adventurous to venture and explore. Each told a different story, as derived from its name; Fisherman's Close, for example, used to lead to a seafood market.
I hitched onto a free walking tour, and it took up through delightful tales as we wandered through the Mile. From the Eleventh step, to the national food and drink, right down to the reason the Nor Loch was drained to form the Princes Street Gardens (and why a hundred female corpses were found decaying inside!), we relished the deep, interesting history of the city.
I met up with Andy, and putting Edinburgh aside for the moment, we took off on a train headed for North Berwick,which used to be Andy's hometown. I finally fulfilled my dream of visiting a small seaside town :) We explored much of the place, trying out local foods and checking out the sights. Wish i had gotten onto Bass Rock, where seabird colonies lay breeding at this time of the year. I did climb up to a volcanic rock ridge though, where i spotted puffins nesting among crashing waves! But i couldn't get too close to them, since it would disrupt their breeding environment, so i left after a glimpse.
Along the way, Andy and i had a great time sharing cultural information, from politics to economics to lifestyles. I am still amazed that he is just 18, the same age as my younger brothers! Now if only they were as mature and knowledgeable...
Edinburgh remains one of my favourite cities, not least because it is just so easy to lose yourself in its winding alleys and dingy shops, where you always expect a lovely surprise, perhaps a rustic book shop or a hidden foodie heaven. Its old city quarter is so small I have probably ventured through it at least eight, nine times, each being a different, riveting experience. Edinburgh, on foot. A must.
I shall always remember, too, a most memorable trip through the Highlands of Scotlands, foraging through spiny forests, luminous Lochs or lakes, and medieval castles, all on a bus modelled like a cow. Introducing... the Hairy Coo, the most amazing FREE tour ever. Comes with highly knowledgeable, humorous and friendly guide. Lunch at a wee bit town with fantastic local food. What's the catch? Nah, there's no catch. Where did your faith in mankind go? (p.s. Remember, don't follow the herd!)
My cousin-in-law Chen recommends Edinburgh at New Year's Eve, where the fireworks blast majestically over the Castle. Andy and Jack propose August till September, when the world-renowned Edinburgh International Festival takes place, and the Royal Mile is transformed into a bustling street of arts and performances.
Well, just take it from me. Edinburgh is good January till March. Also July to September. Maybe October to Dec. Let's not forget April to June too.
Heck, come any time of the year. You will still fall head over hairy coo in love with it :)
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